Bakuchiol vs. Retinol: How Botanical Serums Work on Fine Lines (and What the Research Shows)

Quick answer: Botanical anti-aging serums built on bakuchiol can improve fine lines about as well as retinol, and they tend to cause less irritation. In a 12-week randomized, double-blind trial, 0.5% bakuchiol applied twice a day reduced wrinkles and dark spots comparably to 0.5% retinol applied once a day. The retinol users reported more scaling and stinging.

By Tugs-Oyun Davaadorj, founder and formulator of Oyu Botanica (trained through Formula Botanica). Last updated: September 2026.

My skin never tolerated retinol. I got the flaking, the stinging, and weeks of looking worse before anything looked better. So when I formulated our firming serum, I built it around bakuchiol and the barrier-supporting plant oils my grandmothers' generation relied on in Mongolia.

How does retinol work on fine lines?

Retinol is a form of vitamin A. In the skin it converts to retinoic acid, which speeds up cell turnover and supports collagen. It's one of the best-studied anti-aging ingredients available. The trade-off is irritation: dryness, peeling, and stinging are common, especially at first. The American Academy of Dermatology has more on choosing a retinoid.

How does bakuchiol work?

Bakuchiol is a plant compound from the seeds of Psoralea corylifolia. It isn't vitamin A, but research shows it produces retinol-like effects on signs of photoaging. The most-cited evidence is a 2019 study in the British Journal of Dermatology (Dhaliwal et al.):

• Design: 44 participants, randomized and double-blind, over 12 weeks
• Groups: 0.5% bakuchiol cream twice a day vs. 0.5% retinol cream once a day
• Results: both groups saw significant, comparable reductions in wrinkle surface area and hyperpigmentation
• Tolerance: retinol users reported more facial scaling and stinging

The authors concluded that bakuchiol "is promising as a more tolerable alternative to retinol." It's one study with a small group, but it's the strongest head-to-head evidence available.

Bakuchiol vs. retinol at a glance

	Retinol	Bakuchiol
Source	Vitamin A derivative	Plant-derived (Psoralea corylifolia seed)
Fine lines and dark spots (12-week trial)	Significant improvement	Comparable improvement
Scaling and stinging	More commonly reported	Less commonly reported
Typical use	Usually at night, build up slowly	Morning and night
Best for	Skin that tolerates actives well	Sensitive or reactive skin, and retinol "dropouts"

Where do Mongolian botanicals fit in?

Fine lines look worse when the skin barrier is dry and stressed. That's where the botanicals I grew up with come in. Sea buckthorn, which grows across the Mongolian steppe, is rich in fatty acids, including the omega-7 palmitoleic acid. Oils like it don't replace a firming active. They help skin stay comfortable and supple enough to keep using one consistently, and consistency is what shows results.

Are plant-based serums strong enough, or am I wasting my money?

Not all plant serums are equal. Look for these three things:

1. A named active with evidence, like bakuchiol, rather than a vague "botanical complex."
2. A disclosed concentration. Our Bakuchiol Firming Serum contains 1% bakuchiol, with squalane and vitamin E.
3. Realistic timing. The clinical results above were measured at 12 weeks, not 12 days.

How to use a bakuchiol serum

1. Patch-test first: twice a day for 7–10 days on the inner arm, per AAD guidance.
2. Apply 2–3 drops to clean skin, morning and/or night.
3. Follow with a moisturizer. In the morning, always finish with SPF.
4. Give it at least 12 weeks before you judge the results.

FAQ

Can I use bakuchiol and retinol together?

Some people do, but if you have sensitive skin, start with one and add the other slowly. Ask your dermatologist if you're unsure.

Is bakuchiol safe during pregnancy?

There isn't enough research to say for certain. Check with your doctor before using any anti-aging active while pregnant or breastfeeding.

How much does a good botanical anti-aging serum cost?

Prices vary widely. Our 1% Bakuchiol Firming Serum is $39.99.

Which works better for aging skin, Mongolian botanical serums or retinol?

Retinol has the most research behind it. Bakuchiol has shown comparable results with less irritation in a head-to-head trial. Botanical oils like sea buckthorn support the barrier, so you can keep using an active consistently.